Not quite sure what we’re talking about? View all photographs taken by EMULSIVE on large format sheet film.
Here’s a shoot that I did a few years back. But that doesn’t mean it ain’t best in a narrow range. With winter edging its way into the Northern hemisphere, the long summery days are turning shorter and greyer as we anticipate the upcoming snow. I used an Epson V700 flatbed scanner. The BW400CN scan had a sepia tone and the XP2 film had a cyan cast; I had to desaturate using Lightroom to make it look like traditional silver-based B&W film. Find your perfect Leica or M-mount film camera with the help of this interactive tool & reference data, 65 photographic projects you can do when you’re stuck at home, Color drama: Negative Lab Pro v2… Finding the right workflow for scanning color film at home, How to make a TEXPan: shoot wide-format 35mm film in the Fuji GW690III rangefinder. And that is one of the strong arguments for using Delta 400. (permalink), Recently discussed over in the DIY B&W group:
Some like X and Y together.
This is all provided that you are making scans from the negs. Ilford say it can be shot anywhere from ISO 50 to ISO 800 with no change to the development process at all. I like to find what works for me and then continue to make it work for me until I can use it in all areas.
And thanks to brands like Ilford and Kodak you can enjoy an extensive range of black and white films (Fujifilm: please feel free to feel excluded). It is nominally a 400 speed film, but it can be shoot normally from ISO 50-800 without modification in development (according to the data sheet).
11 replies on “Kodak Tri-X vs. Ilford HP5 – 35mm Film Camparison”. If you’re not quite certain what we mean by “pull” you can read more about pulling your film here.
We’re glad you ask , Something that bears mentioning is that HP5 is very good if you realize you need to PULL it. Because as you use them, you’ll begin to see that your preference for black and white film is as personal to you as is your favorite cereal brand. It has a faithful following (of which we are apart of!) […] See our other post on comparing 35mm format film Kodak Tri-X vs. Ilford HP5 35mm films […], […] Recommended film stock to try – Tri-X 400 & Ilford HP5 plus. He is looking to document the every day person in an extraordinary way.
If you’d like to read more you can head over to the ILFORD blog, where they published some more of my thoughts on this film.
Your email address will not be published. Since Carmencita’s birth in 2012 we have carefully handled, developed, and scanned many types of black and white films. I work on color film as well, but B&W film can really have your mind seeing the shifts of mood in a photograph; whereas color enlivens & can speak about the Moment. It was born originally being called just HP but has evolved into what we know today as HP5. Its sensitivity is more effective and capable of recording maximum information in both the highlights and shadows, provided, of course, that it is properly exposed.
I have used TX in 35mm, 2 1/4, and 4×5 for years, processed in HC110. ages ago Nearly grainless, high speed, inky blacks, good highlight retention, and tones for days. I chose to shoot medium format film for a couple of reasons. Explore experimental development techniques, pushing and pulling film, cross processing, red scale photography and much, much more here. Usually for news events like accidents or fires where you need to scan the images as soon as possible.
I would avoid underexposing xp2. And here's a 100% crop of the same shot so that you can get an idea of grain and sharpness. When metering, it’s best to err towards overexposure as opposed to underexposure, giving pleasant tones, beautiful whites and blacks without over empathizing the grain.
In fact it's distinctive tone and sharpness are quite recognizable if you know what to look for in an image. If you want to get some scans done before you get your film back in the mail, and you still want to make darkroom prints someday, there are few reasons not to use XP2. Not sure where I went wrong. - Duration: 1:34.
More on that later. Fuji's Neopan absorbs the tonal range & if you have too much light, that tonal range can sink. But, the XP-2 is very good. Using HP5 is an easy walk in the park (how’s that for a beautiful relationship? These two images were shot on a Mamiya C330, developed in d-76 stock and scanned... dcastelli9574 says:
(D-76, 1:1 @ 80°F) I just love the tonal range and the grain.
I use this film in either my Leica CL, or my Hasselblad XPan – mostly the XPan! What precisely are those differences? If you are a pro who needs beautiful black and white images quickly and cheaply, you should try XP2. If you are doing an important documentary where historical preservation is paramount, reach for Delta 100 and selenium tone it. I’ve had some unclear results at 1600, but this could be because of poor exposure overall. Try to stick with one stock at a time and be consistent with your developing technique.
Back in the 90s, I shot T-Max 400, mostly.
And if that bothers you, take a deep breath, cause, again, HP5 can do some more heavy lifting.
This is a huge benefit both to you the photographer and we, the lab. Go with what you like.
During that year, I shot Kodak (BW400CN, TMAX 100, TMAX 400, TMAX 3200, and Tri-X) and Ilford (XP2, Delta 100, Delta 400, Delta 3200, and HP5). Allow HP5 to do the heavy lifting cause it’s got you covered. At the heart of EMULSIVE is the concept of helping promote the transfer of knowledge across the film photography community. I like to do my own, so it's HP5+ for me. I also like FP4+; the decrease in speed makes it smoother but limits its use. ages ago (permalink) It is pretty sharp with moderate grain (grain size is at an FP4). Ilford XP2 Super is an ISO 400 chromogenic black and white film that’s available in 36-exposure 35mm cartridges DX-coded with the number 017644, 120 format, and also in single use cameras. Pentax 67 + Ilford Delta 400 by Mtej Kmet. I'm not going to make any judgments here as to which film is better or worse, because that's for you to decide. My name is Dr Mrs ILLA TÄTTE I am the one who took care of Mrs AMAN RITA TANIA... Hi everyone, I'm kind of new at shooting b&w film and self developing. So why don't we see very much of this wonder film? I was almost pre-determined to come into your article with a mind set of "oh please, not another.........".
Beyond 800 we recommend pushing, or Delta 3200). For this reason, we acknowledge the soft spot we have for. Cool, thanks! Because C41 films handle over exposure so well generally, you can really modify contrast through exposure. Well yes, sort of, but no. Even if you do not push or pull Kentmere & use your light meter for precision, you can work with this film. Processing C41 B/W Film with Black And White chemicals
Summing up, HP5 gives a gritty, grainy intense atmosphere to your images and the characteristic high contrast and deep shadow rendition can sometime mean that some fine detail can lost in the emulsion. If you’re not quite certain what we mean by “pull” you can read more about pulling your film, .
A Leica M2 and Rolleiflex TLR.
We can work on the negative in post to adjust the contrast to your liking. I can’t seem to get what I want with HP5……. I prefer TMAX 3200 over Delta 3200 because Kodak has sharper contrast while Ilford is muted. It is head and shoulders sharper than its black and white cousins with much less grain. Ilford does not recommend pushing, but I have done it and it can yield good results, though not passed 1600, whereas a film like HP5 is great up to 3200. Chromogenic films like all color neg and the monochrome XP prefer “over exposure.” The grain becomes less, and you seldom can overexpose, especially if scanned.
and Canonet QL17 GIII with the Kodak Tri-X 400 and Ilford HP5 400 film See Leica vs. Canonet Post .
I used to get my XP2 processed at Target, who definitely wouldn’t offer pushing and my work came out well with some levels adjustment (pulling in blacks). You are the one taking the photo and your own aesthetic will guide you in deciding how to proceed. ages ago FedericoMP says: AFAIK and IMO, since you should develop HP5 by yourself, it is easier to push it than standard C41 film. There is nothing like it for atmosphere! Thank goodness for the wireless revolution, else Hans might have to learn to photograph in a full body cast. Click to enlarge photos. The only conclusions that need to be made here are your own. Just let me know your thoughts. You get …
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I haven't used XP2 myself, but have used a fair bit of HP5+.
Film Notes: Current high-speed films, ILFORD Delta 3200 Professional and Kodak T-MAX P3200 – by Simon King and Andrew Blowers, 5 Frames… From a Hasselblad XPan on Fujifilm Velvia 100 – by Nick Orloff, Why shoot film part 2: seeking the Hasselblad XPan – by Simon King, 5 Frames… Of stand developed ILFORD HP5 PLUS in DD-X at 30°c – by Simon King, 5 Frames (+1)... Of beautiful B&W flowers on ILFORD HP5 PLUS (35mm Format / EI 400 / Minolta X-700 + MD 50mm f/3.5 Macro Lens) - by Kathleen E. Johnson, 5 Frames... Of 35mm film in a Russian 6x9 camera and Agfaphoto APX 400 (35mm Format / EI 200 / KMZ Moskva-2 + Industar-23 110 mm f/4.5) by Martin Nauhaus, 5 Frames... Of Edinburgh and Braemar on an emulsion I rustled up at the weekend (4x5 Format / EI <1 / Wista 45D + Nikkor W 150mm f/5.6) - by Roger Hyam, 5 Frames... Of ILFORD SFX 200 Developed in Cinestill's Df96 monobath with a Fuji GS645S and a red filter - by Ed Steinerts, A complete guide to the Mamiya RZ67, part three: lenses, filters and accessories.
XP2 Super is available in 35mm and 120 formats, and even in Ilford disposable cameras. Rollei is strong in texture, but they have infrared & that can be fun to learn about as well.
It may be that I am not sure about cinematic black and white in the first place, and will be shooting Cinestill in the near future to test what I am able to produce in unique colour. ISO 800: Very Contrasty (Personally I would push at this speed), (ISO 100 & 50 is really too flat, but usable with adjustments in PS or LR. 35 only had to stop using 120 keep getting 2 light struck frames from loading…never have this problem with any other film. By taking a proper reading with a light meter you’ll obtain higher quality images because you’ll have a lower margin of error.
All comparisons were shot at box speed with the same settings and lighting.
(permalink), Isn't XP2 a C-41 process film? View all photographs taken by EMULSIVE on 120 format film – 6×6, 6×7, 6×9, 6×12 and 6×17. In fact, this is a critical way to understand how to get the results you want. As you go up in ISO, you tighten up that contrast to a significant degree. See our article on comparing Single Use Cameras – Side by side photo comparison including Ilford HP5 and XP2 cameras. ages ago
It has a faithful following (of which we are apart of!) Breathe. It's sharper than HP5 with some of the oomph of Tri-X.
Again, true for chromogenic films generally. Questions or comments? The Best Cameras and Lenses for Beginners for Three Common Types of Photography, The Most Stress-Free and Straightforward Place to Sell Your Used Gear.
However my most commonly used films are Kentmere 100 and Ilford HP5 Plus. Have you tried yellow or red filters when you expose XP2? If you like what you're reading you can also help this personal passion project by heading on over to the EMULSIVE Patreon page and giving as little as a dollar a month. There are so many choices out there with varying brands, speeds, grain structures, and formulations that it can be daunting to select a few to try out.
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